Riding Giants: Surfing big waves at Nazaré

The beautiful fishing village of Nazaré, located on the central coast of Portugal, is home to the 30-meter wave (100 ft) which breaks off Praia do Norte. Considered one of the world's biggest waves, surfers pilgrimage to the Forte de Sao Miguel Arcanjo to witness the Atlantic giant.

Nestled between Lisbon and Porto, the charming town of Nazaré may seem tranquil at first glance, but beneath its serene surface lies a giant wave. The notorious Nazaré break is a monstrous force of nature that attracts big-wave surfers from all over the world.

According to Surfer Magazine, big wave surfer Garret McNamara was the first to tame the giant back in 2011. The Hawaiian scored a massive 23-meter (78 ft) wave, still considered one of the largest waves ever ridden. McNamara's remarkable achievement placed Nazaré on the map.

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The Guardian further reports on how McNamara was given a tip by a group of local bodyboarders of a possible big wave location, hidden from the mainstream eye. He visited Portugal for the first time in 2010 to witness the giant in full force from the Forte de Sao Miguel Arcanjo.

Surfers from around the world followed McNamara's lead and formed a tight-knit group known as the 'Nazaré Tribe'.

The group was formed by some of the most talented big-wave surfers in the scene, an electric mix of Australians, Americans, Brazilians, and locals. Surfers in search of the perfect big wave, a thrilling search but with its obvious dangers.

"The best thing I can compare riding one of these waves to is making the conscious decision to be chased down by a moving avalanche, staying as close to it as possible, actually hoping to be engulfed by it, and then somehow escaping," shared McNamara during an interview in 2016.

Rodrigo 'Koxa' Augusto do Espírito Santo is one of the 'Nazaré Tribe', the Brazilian big wave surfer broke the world record after surfing the world's biggest wave back in 2017. The wave was 24.6 meters (82ft) tall!

Not all stories have positive endings while riding waves of that caliber. When analyzing footage of Nazaré, one can't help but squint their eyes in order to spot the surfer charging down the face of the wave. Like a spec of dust trickling down a massive white wall.

The Brazilian big-wave surfer Maya Gabeira nearly drowned in 2013 after a heavy wipeout on a 20-meter (65 ft) wave. The tow teams managed to drag her out of the impact zone just in time. Nevertheless, she would later return to tame the giant wave!

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Australian surfer Ross Clarke-Jones was stranded on the rocks after wiping out on the inside. According to Surfer Magazine, he escaped death by scrambling up the face of a 30-meter cliff.

Nazaré's worst incident was that of Andrew Cotton, who was slammed by a giant 23-meter wave and projected like a human cannonball. He received a very serious underwater beating, completely shattering his back.

"For me, it was just an injury, it wasn't a trauma, It hurt, it was painful but I never thought I was going to die. It's just how it goes," shared Cotton during an interview for Surfer Magazine.

McNamara witnessed Cotton's horrible wipeout, describing it as "the most insane catapult ever in surfing history. You know, the old Roman catapult to break the brick wall? He was the stone."

When riding giants like Nazaré, jet-ski teams or tow teams are extremely important. Not only do they tow the surfers into the wave, but they also make sure to fish them out of the white water, where the risk of drowning is highest.

At the core of Nazaré's mythical wave lies the Nazaré Canyon, an underwater canyon that plunged to depths of 5,000 meters (16,400 ft). The unique underwater bathymetry alongside the strong Atlantic Ocean swells, form the colossal monster of Nazaré. What do you think of this aquatic giant? Would you drop in?

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