Two climbers attempt 8,167-meter ascent with only bare essentials in 'pure alpine style'

Davin Göttler and Hervé Barmasse will attempt a 8,167-meter ascent on the Dhaulagiri. The duo is planning on using the least amount of equipment possible, in ‘pure alpine style’.

“We want to respect ourselves and the mountain,” according to Barmasse. The two experienced climbers want to confront the difficult ascend without minimizing the challenge.

The Dhaulagiri is one of the seven tallest peaks on the earth, with a jaw-dropping 8,000-meter ascend to the top. It is located in the Himalayas, Nepal. Since 2007, 358 expeditions were successful, claiming the lives of 58 climbers.

Göttler and Barmasse equipment will consist of two ice screws, carabiners, carpons, eschwing ropes, high-altitude camps, oxygen masks, and a 60-meter rope. Bare essentials, as the duo seek new challenges during their winter ascent.

“We want to do something that hasn’t been done before, to mark a turning point in the history of winter ascents, and right now alpine style is the only way to be consistent with this desire to differentiate ourselves from what others have done,” Göttler shared.

Göttler and Barmasse attempted to climb the Rupal slope on Nanga Parbat in a similar fashion, however, due to horrible weather conditions, the duo was unable to progress on the wall. They were forced to cancel the expedition.

Now the two climbers set their eyes on the Dhaulagiri, in hopes of achieving one of mountaineering's greatest challenges. Local weather conditions are now currently proving to be their biggest adversary. The two climbers still await the right moment to start their ascend.

“Honestly, our chances of success are tiny, but they would be zero if we had stayed at home, admits Göttler. The two climbers are determined to achieve their goal, its only a question of when.

An alpine style ascent involves two climbers ascending alone, while simultaneously taking all their equipment up and down the summit.

Alpine style climbing has strict criteria, where climbers are encouraged to travel light to minimize their footprint on the mountain. The ascending team can't leave any bolts or gear left on the wall, nor temporary fixing, as well as no previous trips up the wall to set up camps or cache supplies.

Such a challenge limits the duo’s chances of success however, they claim that such conditions only motivate them further.

Göttler shares his admiration for the renowned polish mountaineer, Jerzy Kukuczka, who made four winter ascents on Dhaulagiri.

Cimbers from older generations faced more adverse challenges, due to having less sophisticated climbing equipment.

When looking at modern mountaineers today, they now benefit from higher quality training, more efficient equipment, and more knowledge passed down from previous climbers.

Nevertheless, only a thin margin of climbers end up making it to the top. This sport is one of the most dangerous in the world, leaving those who reach the summit as the select few that go down in mountaineering history.

Mountaineering grows as a sport only when climbers keep challenging themselves, pushing the boundaries, and breaking new records.

A unique sport that is limitless in terms of finding new paths and new adventures. This is the beauty of mountaineering, there are no rules and everyone can climb as they wish.