Jack O'Neill: Surfer, entreprenuer, and creator of the wetsuit

Surfing has long been more than just a sport; it's a lifestyle, a culture, and a display of raw athleticism. The industry itself has evolved at lightning speed due to the growth of the sport. Jack O'Neill is one of those early founding fathers, who took surfing to new rights!

There is a general misconception about surfing, and it is partly due to the over-saturated marketing behind the sport. Not everyone can enjoy the sunny dream-like waves of Southern California or the hypnotizing luke-warm waves of Central America. Jack O'Neill was one of those surfers, living on the rugged Northern Californian coast, and he had a vision for the sport, a creation that would revolutionize the industry forever.

Jack O'Neill was a visionary entrepreneur and a surfing enthusiast who not only contributed to the popularization of the sport but also revolutionized the industry, all thanks to the wetsuit!

O'Neill was born March 27, 1923, in Denver, Colorado. Growing up, he developed a love for the ocean and surfing. A new renegade sport that was captivating the minds of young Americans all over the country.

In 1952, O'Neill moved to San Francisco, where he began his journey. The young surfer fell in love with the mesmerizing waves of Ocean Beach, where he would later establish his first surf shop in a garage!

The invention of the wetsuit changed the game forever. This was one of O'Neill's most groundbreaking contributions to the sport! Before his invention, surfers braved cold water with minimal protection. This would only cut down on their surf sessions.

The aquatic temperature in places like San Francisco or Santa Cruz drops down to 10-14°C (55-60°F). During summer months, the water may rise to 20-22°C (68-72°F).

O'Neill's neoprene wetsuit was introduced in the early 1950s, which offered surfers in cold regions a warm solution to the cold winter months!

The O'Neill surf shop mainly focused on selling surfboards and neoprene vests. However, the shop was beyond a store, it was a major hub for the growing surf culture on the West Coast. The shop eventually expanded its essentials, including apparel and accessories.

Jack O'Neill, being a surfer himself, was extremely committed to quality and innovation, which transformed O'Neill into a major surf brand.

Image source: Youtube - O'Neill

The O'Neill brand became a symbol of free-spirited and adventurous individuals. It embodied every positive quality within the ethos of surfing and it continues to influence the scene to this day!

When SURFER magazine asked him about his thought process behind the wetsuit, O'Neill smiled and responded: "I'm just a surfer who wanted to build something that would allow me to surf longer".

Jack O'Neill looked like a pirate! In 1971, he lost his eye in a surfing accident, and from then on he wore an eye patch over his left eye.

Still today, Jack O'Neill and his surf brand are heavily present in the West Coast surf scene. Surfing competitions, exhibitions, and local community works are just some of the many ways O'Neill has grown his brand.

O'Neill's impact on surfing was not limited to business only. He was the true embodiment of a socially conscious capitalist who also cared for his environment and his community. He was deeply involved in supporting environmental causes related to the ocean and marine life.

Through dozens of charities and social works, O'Neill's brand has committed to preserving the natural beauty of our oceans. A deep reflection of his genuine love for the deep blue, and how one can't live with the other!

Image source: Youtube - O'Neill

Jack O'Neill built himself a house right over Pleasure Point, Santa Cruz, California. O'Neill spent the last of his days overlooking some of the best waves in Northern California. His little corner was named Jacks as a way to honor his contributions to the sport. He died peacefully on June 2nd, 2017.