Two men and a mountain: The true story of the conquest of the Matterhorn

The majestic and imposing Matterhorn stands as an icon of the Alps. With its distinctive pyramid shape and towering peaks, it captivates both climbers and nature enthusiasts. Known for its rich history of triumphs and tragedies, this emblematic mountain has witnessed some of the most memorable moments in mountaineering history.

Scaling this iconic peak, with its sharp ridges, vertical walls and slippery, steep outcrops rising over 1,500 metres, is so challenging it’s hard to believe the mountain was first climbed more than 150 years ago.

Photo credit: Tiia Pakk/Pexels

The Matterhorn remains a formidable test for many climbers. At 4,477 metres, it is relatively small compared to Himalayan giants like Everest. Nor is it the tallest mountain in Europe—that title belongs to Mount Elbrus in Russia’s Caucasus range, which stands at 5,642 metres, according to National Geographic.

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The first ascent of the Matterhorn marked the birth of modern mountaineering, according to an article in National Geographic. Like Everest, its history is filled with ego, ambition, passion, betrayal, bravery and tragedy.

It all began with the first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786, driven by mountaineering pioneer Horace Bénédict de Saussure. By the mid-19th century, the determination of two men, Jean-Antoine Carrel and Edward Whymper, set off a saga of challenges in the quest to conquer the formidable Matterhorn.

In 1861, Whymper, an Englishman, tried to hire Carrel, an Italian, as a guide to climb the Matterhorn. "Jean-Antoine… was the finest climber I ever saw," Whymper later wrote. "He alone refused to accept defeat and believed, despite every setback, that the great mountain was not inaccessible," he said, according to National Geographic.

Carrel, raised in Valtournenche, Italy, followed his family’s tradition as a hunter before serving in the Second Italian War of Independence. On his return, he was determined to conquer what he considered "his" mountain, the Matterhorn, making his first serious attempt in 1860, reaching 3,658 metres on the Italian ridge.

Whymper, meanwhile, began climbing after being sent to sketch Alpine peaks in 1860 and became captivated by the Matterhorn. From that moment, he was determined to be the first to scale this magnificent mountain.

French mountaineer Gaston Rébuffat (on the right of the photo) wrote in his book Men and the Matterhorn: "Carrel saw the Matterhorn as his rightful possession and other attempts to conquer it as a usurpation of his territory." These "monstrous jealousies," as written by Rébuffat, led the Englishman "to feel the conquest should be his alone," as cited by National Geographic.

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After Carrel’s refusal to guide him, Whymper formed a new makeshift team. In Zermatt, he recruited experienced Scottish climber Charles Hudson, young Douglas Robert Hadow and famed guide Michel Croz (pictured). They were joined, according to El Mundo, by two additional guides, the Taugwalder father-and-son duo, to complete the team.

In the race to the summit, Croz and Whymper opted for the slightly lower Italian peak, while Carrel and his team aimed for the Swiss summit. After crossing paths at high altitude, Carrel retreated. Whymper later acknowledged Carrel’s merit as a worthy conqueror of the mountain.

In 1865, after reaching the summit of the Matterhorn, the team was descending roped together with Michel Croz at the front. An unfortunate slip by Douglas Hadow caused a chain reaction, pulling Croz, Hudson and Lord Francis Douglas to their deaths. Although Whymper and the Taugwalders tried to cling to the mountain, the rope broke.

Following the dramatic incident, questions arose about whether the rope had been intentionally cut. Whymper expressed horror, noting that the team had been tied with the thinnest and least reliable rope. Was this choice premeditated, anticipating the tragic outcome? This is what El Mundo asks.

After the tragedy, The Times criticised the ascent and questioned the value of mountaineering, while Queen Victoria considered banning the practice. Despite this, interest in climbing the Matterhorn grew across Europe. In 1871, Lucy Walker, an English adventurer, became the first woman to reach the summit. Photo of a woman climbing.

The arrival of alpine skiing in the 20th century drew tourists to Switzerland, transforming its mountain regions thanks to the legacy of mountaineering. This model expanded, giving rise to popular destinations like Sun Valley, Vail and Jackson Hole as well as numerous mountain towns around the world, according to National Geographic.

The history of the Matterhorn is a legacy of human challenge and determination. Today, it remains a symbol of courage and adventure, attracting mountaineers from all over the globe. However, it also reminds us of the need to live in harmony with the incredible power of nature.

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